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Lonely Planet Discover Egypt (Full Color Country Travel Guide)
Lonely Planet Discover Egypt
(Full Color Country Travel Guide)
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Coral Reef Guide Red Sea: The Definitive Guide to Over 1200 Species of Underwater Life
Coral Reef Guide - Red Sea
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Ras Mohammed - Egypt

Thumbnail pages:  Pyramids | Sphinx | Sharm el Sheikh | Tourist stuff

Unfortunately many of these boats don't reach the same standards that you might expect - Egypt is catching up, but isn't up to European or North American standards of safety.

A day out on the boats - a cautionary tale.

My son and I went out one day on a locally booked snorkelling day-trip in 2004. There were about 50 people in all on the boat, most of them were swimming and snorkelling, about 10 or so stayed on the boat. The first couple of stops were pleasant (we spotted a manta ray on one of them - which was a bonus) and we were accompanied by some crew into the water. I did notice however that they didn't count people out or back into the boat, though it wasn't much of an issue as we were the only boat in the places we went to.

The third and final stop of the day was at a place where there were around 8 boats already moored. Ours pulled up parallel to two others and we got into the water with the instruction that we'd be away again in 30 mins.

Off we went to the edge of the reef and started following it along, it was different to the other places we'd been that day with different life, so when I noticed the time, it was about dead-on leaving time, so we started to swim back to where the boat was - or should have been.

I remembered the name of the boat, it's rough position and the fact that there were two other boats, one on either side that looked very similar. The one I thought was ours wasn't, the name was wrong, so we tried the other two - swimming in snorkelling gear, trunks, snorkel, flippers and mask - nothing else.

Not those either, thought maybe I had the wrong place (unlikely as I have a very good sense of direction and position), so we swam around a while looking at the other less likely boats. Niall (son) was getting a bit panicky by now as we were in about 10m of water, no chance of touching the bottom and occasionally sight of the bottom would disappear as the visibility was less than the depth and we'd been swimming around for quite some time.

I was hatching plans B, C and D - go ashore, find a hotel, phone our hotel (while wearing snorkelling gear - see above). Then I remembered that the first boat we'd checked out was one I'd seen alongside ours that morning, same company, similar name. So we climbed aboard - no-one spoke English. There was one crew member who spoke some English who we tried to communicate our plight to. I was feeling particularly vulnerable and isolated as I stood there getting cold and unable to see without my prescription diving mask! - it was see properly but look a right geek, or take the mask off and see the world as if through the bottom of a jam jar.

It turned out that it was the same company and he called the other boat on his mobile phone, as he did so, our boat came into view. It pulled up alongside, we jumped into the sea again, swam across and finally joined our original boat. There was an English family on board who we had spoken to earlier in the day and they had noticed that we were nowhere to be seen and so made the boat turn around and go back for us.

All was well that ended well, but it was an unpleasant experience. In a way it as well I had Niall with me as I felt I had to be calm and strong for my 12 year old son and so was. Swimming around in the sea with boats 100m apart in a foreign country with the day getting towards dusk was an experience I could have done without.

I've been back to Egypt and the Red Sea twice since then and been out on boats many times, things do seem to be getting better, but it will take time and there are unscrupulous operators who will try to cut corners and employ insufficient or untrained crew. You need to make your own decisions and safeguards for your and your family's safety.

Don't worry unduly, but don't expect that the fear of litigation that pervades so much European and North American culture to apply here making the "Nanny State" - it doesn't. There are dangers like anywhere else and an increasing number of reputable companies that are here for the long term will do most or all of the thinking for you. Don't be afraid to apply your own safety criteria and don't assume that assurances are of consequence, they may be just to shut you up.

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